Modern methods of counteracting age-related changes in facial skin and remedies against wrinkles on facial skin: Plant stem cells in anti-age cosmetics

After 30 years, every woman begins to notice age-related changes in the skin of the face: the skin becomes dull, the elasticity of the skin disappears, the first wrinkles appear around the mouth, small wrinkles under the eyes. Most modern women are puzzled by the question “how to get rid of wrinkles”? There are many creams, cosmetic procedures and other remedies against wrinkles on the face.

The process of aging of facial skin and its age-related changes is absolutely natural for humans. But rapidly developing as a science, cosmetology strives to keep up with the rhythm of modern life, which requires more and more effective and efficient means for caring for the skin of the face and body and, above all, the development of cosmetics and techniques to counteract age-related changes in facial skin and the appearance of wrinkles

Every year in the beauty industry is marked by the emergence of new types and forms of anti-age techniques and cosmetics.

Today, cosmetic products based on stem cells are a common occurrence for most professionals, despite the fact that the history of the use of cellular technologies in the beauty industry is still very young.

Why the confusion?

Tatyana Valentinovna Puchkova: What makes us treat plant stem cells with suspicion?
Of course, there is an immediate association with human stem cells. Today it is well known that the greatest hopes are placed on them for getting rid of severe chronic diseases, restoring organs, and prolonging youth. At the same time, the meaning of ongoing research in the public consciousness often comes down to the possibility of transforming (differentiating) these precursor cells into something useful: blood vessels, organs, new skin. In this context of “cell transformations,” doubts begin to erode the souls of consumers: have scientists really figured out how to turn something plant into something completely human? Well, not an organ, of course, everyone here remains realistic. And, for example, the protein collagen is so necessary for the skin. And how can stem cells from the same apple tree placed in a jar of cream be “integrated” into biochemical processes and human metabolism? In general, the most fantastic questions arise. “How similar are plant stem cells to animal stem cells is the most frequently asked question,” says Tatyana Puchkova. –The first thing to understand is that they have a common basic property. These are undifferentiated, i.e. identical cells, which then become differentiated (having the characteristics of a certain tissue, for example, liver, brain, skin). Most importantly, these cells contain enormous growth potential; they contain the maximum amount of substances necessary for renewal. As for the features of the process of cell differentiation, compatibility with the human body... This is an uncultivated field for research, it is too early to draw any conclusions. But in any case, these questions have nothing to do with cosmetics.

The fact is that the cell mass itself - entire plant cells - does not go into a cosmetic product. Manufacturers are interested in the active components it contains. To do this, the cell mass is processed in a special way, extracting from the cells those substances that are necessary to solve certain skin problems.”

Useful video

About stem cells, watch this video:

Sources of stem cells

Plant cells that are used today in cosmetics are more correctly called meristem rather than stem cells.

The unique ability of plants to restore themselves from the smallest fragments has been known for a long time. But only in the second half of the last century it became clear that it is provided by the so-called initial cells. They are contained in a special plant tissue - the meristem, concentrated in the buds, young roots and seedlings. Meristem cells are stem cells, that is, progenitor cells. They form plant tissues, they determine the growth of stems and roots, and the healing of damage. During the process of division, one of the meristem cells differentiates into a specific type (this depends on the conditions or microenvironment in which it finds itself). And the other remains unintentional stem. Unipotency means that in the future any cell of a plant organism can develop from it.

Unlike human stem cells, all plant stem cells

capable of differentiating into any of the plant cells. In humans and animals, only embryonic stem cells have this property, and then only at the first stages of the division process. In addition, specialized descendants of stem cells easily return to an undifferentiated state, which explains the vegetative propagation characteristic of plants.

Which cream to choose?

Medi-peel, Cell Tox Dermajou Cream - 2,700 rubles, Egia, Intensive Repair Eye Cream - 7,360 rubles, LANCÔME, Absolue L'extrait - 30,570 rubles.

Anti-aging cream from Medi-peel is suitable for normal, dry and combination skin. It noticeably improves its quality literally from the first uses. Has a specific aroma.

Eye cream from the professional brand EGIA. It powerfully fights signs of fatigue and premature aging. It contains: cornflower blue water, panthenol, allantoin, niacinamide, caffeine, sweet almond oil, shea butter, avocado oil, vitamin A, vitamin E, phytostem cells, E.S.A.-3 complex. Can be used under makeup.

Lancome cream elixir contains rose plant cells. There are 2 million of them in each jar! Thanks to them, the skin is deeply moisturized, radiant, tightened and restored.

If you are seriously concerned about the fight against age, take a look at the article: The shortest path to youth: improving skin color in 5 steps.

Substances of youth

All researchers admit that the meristem cells of plants contain the most powerful growth potential. This manifests itself in a high concentration of active substances. When cells become differentiated and their functions are determined, only those substances that are necessary for this function will remain. The combination of active substances is a guarantee of the future full life of the plant: its formation, protection at the “seedling” stage from unfavorable environmental factors, preservation of genetic information and synchronization of cell division processes. These substances include fatty acids, nucleic acids and amino acids, peptides, vitamins and cofactors, proliferative and antioxidant defense enzymes, phytohormones, and antioxidants. Entire classes of regulatory substances have been discovered that ensure processes of intercellular interaction: auxins, gibberellins, cytokinins, brassinolides, jasmonates, polyamines, peptide hormones. Plant stem cells produce large amounts of ribonucleic acids (RNA).

Numerous studies show that many participants and regulators of plant growth and life support processes have a similar structure to those in the human body. And they even perform similar functions. For example, in 2003, a group of Florentine scientists proved the amazing similarity of plant and human steroids. However, when it comes to extracting certain substances for cosmetics, complete coincidence is not necessary:

“Let’s take simple molecules, the same amino acids,” explains Tatyana Puchkova. “They are the same in plants and humans. If we are talking about some biologically active factors, growth hormones, then, as a rule, these are peptides: short molecules that consist of several amino acids.”

Modern technologies allow us to obtain completely identical compounds from a chemical point of view. With a properly set up “production process”, our body will not care where these substances come from. One such example is the use of hyaluronic acid.

. At first it was isolated from the lens of a bull, then from the combs of immature cockerels, now almost all of the “hyaluronic acid” is obtained through microbiological synthesis. When a cosmetics manufacturer works with it, the source of origin does not matter to him. The main thing is that it is of high quality and well cleaned.”

Links[edit]

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Methods of obtaining

Extracts of meristem cells used in cosmetics are obtained in two ways.

The first was provided to us by nature itself, concentrating these cells at points of active plant growth. In early spring, buds, sprouts, young roots and shoots are collected and freshly cleaned, crushed and extracts are prepared. The extracting mixture, which includes water, glycerin, and alcohol, is itself an excellent preservative. Therefore, no other substances are required to be added to it. The extracts obtained in this way are of particular value - they preserve the integrity of intercellular relationships and a harmonious combination of “authentic” active substances. Unfortunately, this method does not provide the yield of biological material that is necessary for the widespread production of cosmetics.

The second way - biotechnological - is as follows. An incision is made on a piece of plant tissue - an explant. At the site of damage, cells begin to actively divide, forming a colorless cell mass - callus. Callus cells have some characteristics of stem cells. The callus is then placed in special liquid media containing nutrients and stimulants to increase biomass. The cycle is completed by cell homogenization, extraction of necessary components and their stabilization. This method of obtaining an extract has its own difficulties, which makes the final product quite expensive. Callus cells outside the body grow chaotically, during cultivation they gradually lose their ability to regenerate, and are genetically unstable (the number and “quality” of chromosomes in them can vary greatly). The main advantage of the biotechnological method is the ability to obtain large quantities of standardized extracts of undifferentiated plant tissues. But as biotechnological processes improve, the quality of such extracts becomes increasingly higher.

Use in cosmetics

Alas, human stem cells age along with us, and are no longer able to maintain the functioning of tissues and organs. The experience of American and European doctors has shown that the use of plant stem cell extracts helps correct many pathological changes that accompany aging: improves cellular metabolism, cleanses cells of toxins, restores their damaged components, and ensures an adequate response to non-stressful situations. In 2008, after standardized extracts of plant stem cells were in the hands of scientists, laboratory experiments proved that callus extract from one of the apple tree species increases the proliferative activity of human stem cells isolated from umbilical cord blood. And also at the genetic level, it restores the activity of fibroblasts, cells of the intercellular matrix, which decrease with age, on which collagen production

and elastin. When this extract is applied to the skin in the area of the so-called “crow’s feet” after 4 weeks of use, a decrease in the depth of wrinkles by 15% is registered.

Numerous discoveries were immediately adopted by cosmetic concerns. Entire lines of products containing plant stem cell extracts have appeared. For example, apple tree cells of the Utwier Shatlauber variety, which are characterized by increased resistance to environmental influences, and Asian centella, which contains substances that help control inflammation, tone and permeability of blood vessels. Edelweiss, which has a powerful antioxidant effect, and many others.

The presence in these extracts of growth factors that regulate division, growth and metabolism in cells, indeed, allows them to be used as active biostimulators of human cells. “It is worth noting that in order to obtain plant stem cells of high purity, functionality and activity, it is necessary to use the latest methods, strictly controlled conditions, and modern knowledge based on long-term research and testing.

Potential Harm

Creams with phytostem cells are considered hypoallergenic and have no contraindications. Practicing cosmetologists and doctors in other areas think somewhat differently and name several possible unpleasant consequences of such rejuvenation:

phytostem cells are considered foreign to the human body and, when penetrating into the deep layers of the dermis, they are attacked by the immune system - inflammatory processes, deformation of the epidermis, and profuse acne breakouts are inevitable;
having gone through all stages of processing and storage, cells can cause the growth of malignant or benign tumors;
With regular, long-term use of the drug, fibroblasts are formed, and they participate in the development of cancer.

What's in the future?

In both plant and embryonic stem cells

has its supporters. Perhaps someday human stem cells will take their place in cosmeceuticals, given the skin’s amazing ability to regenerate. But that time has not yet come. Modern science already knows that both plants and animals use similar chemical compounds as growth factors. But at the same time, according to Tatyana Puchkova, modern science, by and large, has not yet studied how these physiologically active compounds work in the human body, how they penetrate the skin. This area of knowledge is currently at the experimental stage. Nevertheless, the use of plant stem cells in cosmetics is a very promising direction from several points of view:

The ability to obtain the necessary substances in the required concentration.
By adjusting the technological process for producing an extract from plant mass, it is possible to make a standard product. That is, obtain an extract with a clearly defined amount of active substances
Ingredient safety.
We can choose a plant that is completely healthy, grown in ideal conditions, and not treated with pesticides. That is, we must comply with a lot of factors that allow us to say that we are eliminating side effects as much as possible.
Availability of raw materials even from the rarest plants:
Since the biotechnological method uses only a piece of tissue from the growth point, and further growth of the cell culture occurs under artificial conditions, we can obtain plant material from very rare plants. For example, Edelweiss, growing high in the mountains. Or algae that grow in the deep sea in arctic conditions. These plants have high regenerative potential because they live under stress conditions.
Preservation of the environment.
We do not need to grow plantations of plants, harvest them, dry them, grind them. To obtain a large amount of raw materials, a small, specially equipped room is sufficient.

“However, the most interesting is yet to come,” says Tatyana Puchkova. - If the experimenter learns to vary the conditions of cell division, he will be able to obtain standardized extracts with clearly defined substances. For example, we know that some substance stimulates hair growth. And we will be able to direct the process of cell division so that we get exactly that. This is a real way to obtain natural and effective ingredients for cosmetics. I like the beautiful symbiosis of naturalness and high technology in this approach.”

More information about plant stem cells can be found in the book by T. Puchkova “Cosmeceuticals as intensive cosmetics”, Moscow, 2010.