beauty
January 4, 2020
text: My Handbook
If you were friends with Scarlett Johansson, she would give you some useful advice. But not acting. These would be skin care recommendations. It turns out that the actress is well versed in beauty issues and constantly reads literature on this topic.
First, Scarlett would advise using natural remedies rather than harsh synthetic products “that your dermatologist may prescribe.” Secondly, it would make you look at apple cider vinegar differently. In an interview with ELLE UK, she says: “If you have skin problems or suffer from breakouts, vinegar really does heal. It smells a little, but it will be really effective in those cases when you are not sleeping with your boyfriend.”
That interview was recorded back in 2013, but time proves that Scarlett was right. Today, vinegar, a well-known friend of the stomach and intestines, is one of the latest trends in the beauty industry. Apples contain pectin, a natural thickener that improves digestion. But we know six reasons why your face will also appreciate natural apple cider vinegar. When used correctly, it can become a faithful companion for absolutely any skin, including problem skin. And that's why.
Exfoliates dead cells
“Since time immemorial, natural beauty followers have considered vinegar, especially apple cider vinegar, to be the best way to combat everything from dandruff to age spots,” says Imelda Burke, author and founder of natural beauty store Content Beauty. “The modern beauty industry remembered this universal ingredient, and it ended up in face toners.”
No surprise: malic acid is similar in composition to an alpha hydroxy acid (or AHA). These are natural biological substances that are found in sour milk, old wine and sugar cane. They weaken the connections between the scales of the epidermis, which facilitates the process of their separation. Thus, malic acid gently exfoliates the top layer of skin, giving the face freshness and radiance.
Facial acids - which ones are used.
Acids for facial skin are time-tested helpers. Their effects have been confirmed and there is no reason to doubt the expected results. All that remains is to understand which acids need to be used, in what concentration and to eliminate which problems. Almost all brands use acids as active components of skincare products. For example, in Renophase cosmetics, the use of acids is defined as a guiding idea.
ANA, BHA, and PHA acids are used in cosmetics. We will not go into chemistry, especially since what is accepted in the established understanding and notation does not correspond to the classification of chemists.
For us,
AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) are fruit acids, the most common being glycolic, lactic, mandelic, malic, tartaric, and citric.
BHA (beta hydroxy acid), a salicylic acid, is found in birch and willow bark. For the first time, it was obtained from willow.
PHA (polyhydroxy acids) is the result of research aimed at reducing the degree of irritation of acids to the skin. RHA is used for sensitive, dry and aging skin. The most common are gluconolactone and lactobionic acid.
Whitens
Apple cider vinegar contains amino acids as well as vitamins A, P, C, E and B and has excellent whitening properties. When used externally, it gently lightens the skin (keep in mind if you intend to get rid of pigmentation and freckles), and also accelerates the healing of wounds and scars, saturates cells with oxygen, smoothes out fine wrinkles and gives the skin elasticity.
Eliminates inflammation
Doctor of Medical Sciences, famous dermatologist Joshua Zeichner notes that apple cider vinegar is also an excellent remedy for fighting acne. On the one hand, it regulates the functioning of the sebaceous glands, on the other, it destroys bacteria that cause acne. And if you mix apple cider vinegar with baking soda and water in a ratio of 1:3, and then add a few drops of essential eucalyptus, lemon or tea tree, you will get an effective scrub that reduces breakouts, eliminates blackheads and tightens pores.
Salicylic acid (BHA), features of use.
It has antimicrobial, antifungal properties, opens comedones, and facilitates the release of sebum from the sebaceous glands.
Unlike AHAs, the effectiveness of salicylic acid is determined not by the pH value, but by its concentration.
In peeling preparations the concentration is 15-20%.
In other cosmetics, the concentration is up to 2%.
Salicylic acid is effective at lower concentrations compared to AHAs. This also applies to peelings and other cosmetics.
So, we have analyzed for what type of skin AHA, BHA and PHA acids are used, and also understood what concentration and pH value should be for a particular effect.
Takes care of hair
Thanks to its rich content of vitamins and fruit acids, apple cider vinegar is a natural alternative to hair conditioner. It tames unruly curls, covering the scales, making them soft and silky. Ideal for those with oily hair, as well as those who suffer from dandruff. This is again because vinegar regulates the natural pH of the scalp and sebum production. Masks with vinegar help accelerate hair growth, and regular rinsing with it gives it a luxurious shine.
Can be prepared at home
It is worth noting that natural unrefined apple cider vinegar, which is less common on sale than pasteurized, has the greatest value. However, this product is easy to prepare at home. To do this, take apples (at the rate of 1 liter of juice), 100 grams of sugar, 100 ml of water and a pinch of yeast. All ingredients are mixed in a glass container, and then you need to put a rubber glove on it to block the access of oxygen.
Next, the container needs to be placed in a dark place for two to three weeks to eventually get ordinary cider. After this, the glove, swollen with carbon dioxide, must be removed, cover the container with a clean piece of gauze and leave for another 2-3 days. This is how cider turns into homemade, unrefined vinegar. Now you can pour it into a clean bottle, close the lid and use it to care for your face and hair.
It is important to remember that apple cider vinegar should never be applied to the skin in its pure form. Before use, it must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:3 to avoid irritation and burns. Also, vinegar is not used simultaneously with other acids and retinoids. If you have overly sensitive skin, you should first do a patch test on the skin behind your ear or wrist.
Type of malic acid as a food additive and rules for its storage
According to the degree of impact on the human body, malic acid belongs to hazard class 3. It is absolutely non-toxic, fire and explosion proof.
When working with the substance, it is recommended to use personal protective equipment and observe personal hygiene rules. All rooms in which work is carried out with large volumes of malic acid must be equipped with a supply and exhaust ventilation system.
Hydroxysuccinic acid must be stored in the manufacturer's packaging in dry, well-ventilated warehouses. Shelf life – 2 years from the date of manufacture.
Our choice
Ayuna The Facial Polishing Concentrate
This innovative water-based concentrate from luxury Spanish brand Ayuna visually transforms the skin, improving its health and appearance. Gently cleanses and transforms your appearance, as if you were visiting a cosmetologist every day. Contains colloidal acids (succinic and glutamic), which renew cells, gently remove dead epidermis and slow down the aging process. Helps balance skin microbiota and restores skin's natural radiance. The motto of the toner is clear skin in 60 seconds!
How to use
Twice a week, apply the product to cleansed, dry skin, including the neck and décolleté. The toner is available in two formulas: more concentrated (High) and soft (Low) for different skin types. It is recommended to start your acquaintance with Low - a more gentle option. After use, do not neglect sunscreen.
Buy
Jane Scrivner Skinfoliate Exfoliating Essence
A unique and powerful organic facial exfoliant. It is an explosive mixture of fat-dissolving AHA and BHA acids: there is pineapple, burdock, and blueberries, as well as orange, lemon, white willow and organic apple cider vinegar. With regular use, it gently polishes the skin, regulates the acid balance and creates an invisible protective film.
How to use
You should start with once or twice a week and gradually work your way up to daily use. It is recommended to apply using a cotton pad or a reusable cotton applicator. Wipe cleansed skin with a damp cloth, avoiding the area around the eyes, and then apply moisturizer or serum.
Buy
Heritage Store Rosewater Vinegar Facial Toner
A very simple yet effective facial toner with apple cider vinegar and rose essential oil for smooth and bright skin. Use on the face and scalp to soothe, balance, cleanse and cool the skin. A true all-rounder.
How to use
Apply to a cotton pad and wipe your face with it. Spray onto hair for a smoothing effect.
Buy
Bio-fermented essence Amly Meadow Dew
Essence is an important step in skin care, which greatly enhances the effect of other products. For example, this product from British brand Amly is formulated using botanical extracts, floral waters, cold-pressed oils and highly concentrated bioactives to achieve a bright and healthy complexion. Biofermented apple cider vinegar nourishes the skin, slows down the appearance of wrinkles and stimulates microcirculation. In addition, the essence has active anti-aging ingredients such as rose quartz (soothes the skin and smoothes wrinkles) and copper peptides (helps collagen synthesis).
How to use
This is a day care, so it is recommended to use in the morning. Squeeze 3-4 drops into the palm of your hand and apply to skin with gentle pressing movements until completely absorbed. Next, use your usual care.
Buy
Biofermented nectar Amly Nocturnal Nectar
Another Amly product with bio-fermented apple cider vinegar, but this time intended for evening care. The composition also includes such excellent ingredients as honey (regenerates tissue, cleanses and moisturizes), green tea (protects against free radicals), snow algae (strengthens cellular protection and restores). Valerian root will set you up for relaxation and promote healthy sleep.
How to use
Use in the evening for complete skin regeneration. Squeeze 3-4 drops into the palm of your hand and apply to skin with gentle pressing movements until completely absorbed. Next, use your usual care. For maximum effect, best used together with Meadow Dew Day Essence.
Buy
Gallinée Prebiotic Face Vinegar
According to the manufacturer, this product is “a tonic, only much better.” The product is simply called “vinegar for the face,” but its formula is still more complex than its regular table counterpart. This one from Gallinée restores acid-base balance, unclogs pores and restores complexion. Enriched with the new prebiotic Actibiome, the toner soothes irritated skin, fights breakouts and prevents their further occurrence. Also contains antioxidant-rich hibiscus vinegar to stimulate cell turnover and protect skin.
How to use
Using a cotton pad, apply to cleansed skin of the face, neck and décolleté in the morning and evening. Suitable for sensitive skin.
Buy
Josh Rosebrook Cacao Antioxidant Mask
While free radicals destroy skin cells and speed up the appearance of anti-aging products on your bathroom shelf, antioxidants are actively fighting them. The anti-aging mask from the green brand Josh Rosebrook, popular among Hollywood stars, is based on organic cocoa, which enhances cell regeneration and smoothes out scars. In addition, it stimulates blood circulation, brightens the skin and promotes natural collagen production. The mask also contains moisturizing marula and baobab oils, beetroot and calendula extracts, which reduce redness and pigmentation.
How to use
Apply the mask quickly and evenly to your face. You can keep it on your face for up to 45 minutes, periodically sprinkling your face with toner so that the mask does not dry out on your face and does not draw moisture from the skin. Then you need to rinse off the product and apply your usual care. Immediately after the procedure, the skin may turn slightly red. This is normal and indicates increased blood circulation.
Buy
Smoothing shampoo Phillip Adam Shampoo Apple Cider Vinegar
This shampoo's intensely smoothing formula harnesses the power of apple cider vinegar to instantly smooth strands and impart healthy shine. Removes styling residue, balances the natural pH of the scalp, plus smells nice of green apple. Hair becomes healthy and silky smooth.
How to use
Apply a small amount to the scalp, massage and rinse with water. Repeat if necessary.
Buy
Daily norm
Despite the fact that malic acid is approved for use in all countries of the world, permissible limits for its consumption have not yet been established. In view of this, it is important to consume foods rich in organic compounds in moderation (3-4 apples per day).
The need for hydroxysuccinic acid increases with:
- fatigue;
- slowing down metabolism;
- excessive acidification of the body;
- diseases of the intestinal tract;
- skin rashes.
The oxysuccinic compound is contraindicated in the following pathologies:
- high acidity of gastric juice;
- ulcerative diseases;
- oncological lesions;
- internal bleeding;
- severe gastrointestinal diseases;
- digestive disorders.
In addition, it is advisable to limit the intake of malic acid (to 1 - 2 apples per day) to expectant mothers, nursing women, children under 10 years of age, and persons in the postoperative period.
