Jessner peeling (Hollywood peeling) is a procedure that allows you to intensively exfoliate dead skin to stimulate its renewal and eliminate some defects. It should only be carried out under the close supervision of a specialist. Due to the influence of active substances, a pronounced rejuvenating effect is observed, which can subsequently be maintained without much effort.
Peeling composition
Jessner peeling is performed by cosmetologists to affect the skin at the mid-level. Also, the composition is often used for a delicate (superficial) effect on the skin, increasing the concentration of ingredients.
This type of peeling is a cocktail consisting of alpha and beta hydroxy acids, as well as an antiseptic:
- salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid, a keratolytic that has anti-inflammatory, sebum-regulating and antibacterial effects;
- lactic acid - one of the mildest AHA acids, which has a moisturizing and exfoliating effect;
- Resorcinol is an antiseptic that suppresses the development of pathogenic bacteria and reduces the risk of developing negative skin reactions.
Thus, lactic acid whitens, helps exfoliate dead skin cells, activates collagen synthesis, and also stimulates cell renewal and moisturizes.
Salicylic acid, in turn, works as an antiseptic, effectively penetrating the skin and cleansing pores of impurities. It also dries out inflammation, and most importantly, prevents itching after the procedure.
Resorcinol is an ingredient that enhances the effect of acids and also destroys bacteria.
Features of carrying out at home
Jessner peeling is not recommended to be performed on your own. A home procedure can have unpleasant consequences. As a last resort, before carrying out the intervention, consultation with a cosmetologist is required. Don’t expect that trying to prepare the mixture yourself will be a great savings. This is fraught with complications.
Even if you strictly follow the instructions. It is better to use ready-made professional peelings, a description of the rules for use of which is always included with the product. You should apply no more than 1-2 layers of the substance, do not leave the composition on the skin for long periods of time. This procedure does not entail heavy rehabilitation and will give mild positive results without complications.
Types of peeling by depth of influence
The choice of peeling depth depends on the patient’s indications and goals.
Surface
A relatively popular type of peeling, which is carried out for the purpose of:
- getting rid of age spots;
- equalization of tone and relief;
- eliminating traces of acne.
Superficial peeling can be carried out in a course, as well as in preparation for a medium TCA peel.
Median
Medium peeling can correct significant defects: these can be scars, severe hyperpigmentation of the facial skin, and traces of post-acne.
Indications
It has been proven that Jessner peeling is effective against enlarged pores, excessive sebaceous glands, helps reduce wrinkles, and evenly moisturize tissues. The procedure copes with many defects::
- scars, acne defects, skin unevenness;
- hyperpigmentation;
- acne;
- ingrown hair;
- freckles, comedones, seborrhea.
Contraindications are the period of pregnancy and lactation, severe diabetes, thin sensitive skin, dermatosis, herpes.
In general, reviews about Jessner peeling confirm that all indications are correct and the procedure is effective.
How is the procedure performed?
First, a sensitivity test is performed. Then the cosmetologist degreases the top layer of the epidermis and applies a composition with acids. Typically, the effects of acids will be felt as a slight burning sensation on the face. Then, when the composition dries, the specialist applies a mask to soothe the skin.
Thus, the procedure time depends on the intensity of the action of acids (for example: superficial or middle type), as well as on the number of layers of solution applied. On average, each of them is applied at an interval of 5 minutes.
It is worth noting that the duration of the procedure is about 60 minutes. The duration of action of the composition is from 3 to 5 hours, the remains of which are washed off by the patient at home, independently.
It is advisable to perform peeling in the autumn-winter period, at a time when sun activity is reduced. The number of procedures, as well as the depth of impact, are determined by a cosmetologist. Please note that the procedure has a cumulative effect. As a rule, the course varies from 2 to 6 sessions, the break is 4-6 weeks. The final result can be assessed in a month.
Stages
1. The preparatory stage begins a few days before the visit to the clinic. The patient is recommended to use a special lotion and cream for UV protection. An allergy test for the active ingredients is carried out on an invisible, delicate area of skin behind the ear. A sign that peeling is possible is the absence of redness, itching, and swelling.
2. Before the session, you cannot use cosmetics with fruit acids, moisturizer:
- the face is cleansed, the skin is degreased;
- Apply the peeling mixture from the forehead to the chin. The patient feels a slight burning sensation, and salicylic acid crystals appear on the face. Layers are applied at intervals of 5-7 minutes;
- The peeling substance is washed off, a soothing mask is applied, then a moisturizing cream is applied.
3. The recovery period takes up to 7 days. You should use sunscreen and avoid visiting the beach or solarium. You should not use decorative cosmetics, and your face should be hidden from the sun.
A cosmetologist's opinion on Jessner peeling
Cosmetologist-esthetician CLINIC21 Bursova Natalya Vasilievna:
“I would like to draw your attention to the fact that during the rehabilitation period, peeling will appear on the skin. But there is no need to worry - peeling indicates that the epidermis is intensively renewed and restored.
In just a few days they will disappear. The main thing is not to peel off the film that appears. It will disappear completely and without third-party intervention a few days after the procedure.
Redness and white areas may also appear. But all the discomfort pays off in the result. In just 2 weeks, your skin will be able to fully recover.”
Indications
Indications for the procedure:
- acne and post-acne;
- skin pigmentation;
- enlarged pores on the face;
- the presence of pronounced facial wrinkles;
- scars, scars.
Reviews from cosmetologists
Jessner peels are used for a variety of purposes. Chemicals fight active acne, age-related changes, scars, and enlarged pores. A complex of effective particles can partially remove pigment spots that arise due to ultraviolet radiation. The procedure is designed to rejuvenate, improve appearance and reduce overall melanin levels.
Before starting, the cells' reaction to chemicals is checked. If you have an allergy, Jessner peeling is prohibited. The composition is applied to a small area behind the ear (select the most inconspicuous part of the body), then wait 24 hours. The proportions of the components are determined by the type of face, tolerance of the components and sensitivity. The cosmetologist evaluates the quality of the problem surface, and then combines salicylic, glycolic and lactic acids.
During peeling, you may feel tingling and tightness. This is a normal reaction to a chemical peel. To reduce discomfort, cooling is required. It can be provided with a fan. Some craftsmen use a fan. The session lasts from 5 to 7 minutes. After removing the composition, the skin will look frostbitten (a white coating will appear), but this will pass after an hour. An even color is also achieved.
On the second day redness appears. Then the white shade gives way to brown. Along with this comes dryness. Some people note swelling, but this depends on the individual. Such indications are observed for no more than 5 days.
Before applying the peeling itself, you need to prepare. It is important to understand that exposure to chemicals is a great stress for the epidermis. The area to be treated is cleaned and degreased. Professional solutions are used for these processes.
In order for the restoration to proceed without violations, it is recommended to follow certain rules. It is not recommended to mechanically influence the formed film. Do not be exposed to ultraviolet radiation (sunbathing, sunbathing, visiting a solarium). When out in the sun, try to apply sunscreen.
Washing is carried out as carefully as possible, with light stroking movements, without pressure. To do this, use only warm boiled water to avoid introducing any infections. It is forbidden to wear makeup for a week. It is allowed to use only products recommended by a specialist. He prescribes care medications on a personal basis.
A month after peeling, you can again visit a cosmetologist, who will remove the remaining crust and carry out cleaning. If necessary, the specialist will schedule a repeat session. A cosmetologist should evaluate the epidermis and make nourishing masks that accelerate regeneration.
If desired, you can repeat the Jessner peel. The recovery period takes about a month. The effectiveness of Jessner Peel cannot be predicted in advance.
The appearance of the first wrinkles can be corrected with Jessner peeling. This is an excellent alternative to surgical interventions and helps fight pigmentation. The skin is significantly improved, refreshed, and rejuvenated.
Precautionary measures
Jessner peeling has a wide range of contraindications, careful attention to which will protect you from unpleasant consequences. The procedure cannot be performed if:
- intolerance to the components of the solution;
- pregnancy;
- rosacea, the presence of large moles and other formations in the treatment area;
- exacerbation of herpes;
- skin diseases requiring preliminary treatment (demodex, psoriasis, eczema);
- oncology of any location;
- open wounds on the surface (scratches, abrasions, opened pimples);
- fresh tan;
- inflammation, tissue irritation;
- acute course of any disease;
- taking retinoids, products containing menthol, camphor;
- hormonal imbalance (medication, lactation, menstruation, menopause).
It is recommended to postpone the procedure in case of general ailments. Cosmetologists do not undertake interventions in the summer. Optimal period: from autumn to spring. It is recommended to complete the course completely in March. Dark-skinned people should think carefully about the advisability of performing a Jessner peel. The procedure can result in the appearance of a demarcation line that spoils the appearance.
If contraindications are excluded and all the cosmetologist’s recommendations are followed, the occurrence of complications is minimal. Normal reactions preceding the final result are the appearance of:
- redness;
- swelling;
- excessive peeling;
- dark spots, red-brown crust.
The phenomena are accompanied by moderate pain, burning, itching. All symptoms normally disappear within 7–10 days. If large subcutaneous pimples appear, spots that do not go away for a long time, signs of infection (severe pain, fever, suppuration, induration, extensive swelling), or suspected allergies (rash, persistent itching, long-lasting redness), it is recommended to consult a cosmetologist.
Note! The absence of peeling and weak skin convergence should also not be alarming. This is not a signal of low quality intervention. This circumstance is typical when carrying out surface exposure (1–2 layers).
Advantages and disadvantages
Jessner peeling, like any other cosmetic procedure, has positive and negative sides. The advantages include:
- safety;
- anti-inflammatory effect without complications;
- deep cleansing;
- can be used at any age;
- noticeable effect even after one session;
- when the skin peels, a person is not limited in his capabilities, so he can perform his usual work;
- short rehabilitation period;
- wide range of indications;
- acceptable price;
- takes no more than 20 minutes.
Jessner facial peeling is used only if the client is aware of the following disadvantages and limitations:
- contraindications (list above);
- the risk of complications remains;
- severe peeling when using a deep cleaning composition;
- unpleasant odor;
- As the number of layers increases, the duration of rehabilitation also changes in direct proportion.
Popular brands and prices
When going for a peel, be sure to ask what product the dermatologist works with. The Salicylicpeel JS solution from Martinex has very good reviews. It contains 10% lactic acid, 14% each of salicylic acid and resorcinol.
Other brands are no less popular:
- MedicControlPeel (MSP) Russia. The drug is not cheap; for 30 ml you will have to pay 4800 rubles;
- Allura (Allure) Esthetics USA— 2480 rub. for 30 ml;
- MedPeel USA - 2600 rub. for 30 ml;
- Mediderma (Mediderma) Spain - 7130 rub. for 60 ml;
- PCA Skin USA — 2840 rub. for 30 ml.
Recently, Kaitlin and ONmacabim from Israel have been gaining popularity . A tube of their product costs about 3,000 rubles.
Advantages and disadvantages
The Jessner peel is a superficial-medium type of exfoliating cleansing, as is the coral, yellow (retinoic) method of exfoliating the skin. TCA is already considered to have more serious effects. Exposure to a milk-salicylic mixture is called a less comfortable procedure than its analogues.
This is the main disadvantage of the option. Exposure requires mandatory preparation, significant rehabilitation, and does not exclude complications after exposure.
The advantages of Jessner peeling include the reasonable cost of the procedure. It is often lower than the retinol, coral exfoliation option. The method allows you to achieve effective results: getting rid of scars, wrinkles, skin tightening. The beneficial effect of the product is recognized as more noticeable than when using analogues.
Consequences of an illiterate procedure
The troubles that are most often encountered after a Jessner peel are redness, peeling, tightness, dryness and slight swelling. This is normal for such a strong acid peel - the effects disappear within a week.
However, if a cosmetologist or the person who performed the procedure at home makes a mistake, the following complications may occur:
- New rashes. Unaccustomed exposure to acids may cause the skin to become inflamed. When a client develops open and closed comedones and various forms of acne, he is prescribed non-aggressive treatment;
- Burns. After the procedure, the client will experience a mild or moderate form of burn in one way or another. Anything more comes from a large number of layers of the product applied on the skin (more often in the case of deep peeling). The patient is prohibited from aggressive washing and is prescribed healing ointments;
- Exacerbation of infection. This happens if the patient does not notify the dermatocosmetologist in time about his diseases in an active form (herpes, demodicosis, etc.). Before starting the procedure, you need to recover, and if the disease is chronic, then wait until the infection subsides and take medications that contribute to this.
Post-procedure care
Care after any acid peel is aimed at healing the skin and protecting it from the sun.
Immediately after the last layer of the Jessner peel is removed, a healing ointment or baby cream is applied to the client's face. It is recommended to travel home by car or taxi to minimize skin interaction with the sun and the environment.
It is forbidden to wash your face or touch your face in any way for 12 hours after peeling. Washing the next day is allowed. Taking a shower and lightly massaging your face can speed up the process of exfoliating dead particles. It is not prohibited to use foam cleansers for dry skin. Be sure to use healing care products throughout the day.
Do not manually pick off pieces of dead skin. You will only slow down its healing, and in the worst case, leave wounds and spots on your face.
Decorative cosmetics can be used approximately 11 days after peeling, but only if there is no obvious damage to the skin. Patients note that cosmetics adhere better to fresh skin after acids.
You also need to remember about sun protection. This applies not only to post-peeling care, but to life in general. Apply the product with patting movements in a thick layer. This should be done 20 minutes before going out into the sun. The recommended amount of sun cream for just one face is about 1.25 ml. Buy yourself a measuring spoon to find out how much you need. Its spf should be at least 30.
Update your Sanskrin every 2 hours you are outside. You don't need to wash your face first for this. Remember that not wearing sun protection will cause new wrinkles, hyperpigmentation and freckles that you fought with the Jessner peel.
Results after a month
Overall, I am satisfied with the 1st procedure. Fresh acne spots have lightened, and this is enough for me at the first stage. I plan to do a course of at least 5 procedures, perhaps even more. But for now I’ll put it off until early spring - I’m finally ready to do laser resurfacing.
Skin one and a half weeks after resurfacing:
For a procedure of 3 layers, I paid 2500 rubles (the price started at 1300, it all depends on the number of peeling layers applied). The price is adequate, as far as I know, other salon peelings are priced around this range.
And so, if you compare laser resurfacing and Jessner peeling, a course of peelings will cost about the same amount of money as laser resurfacing. But polishing, as far as I know, does not work particularly effectively on acne spots. Therefore, I consider carrying out peeling after it justified.
