From this article you will learn how to correctly sculpt your face step by step; we will provide detailed instructions, diagrams, photos and videos. We will also talk about the best products for contouring, the differences between working with oily and dry concealers.
Let's start by defining technology. What it is? This is a method of applying makeup that simulates an oval shape. Using a palette with foundation and other coatings, you can hide imperfections and highlight natural features, softening them or highlighting them. This type of makeup appeared and became popular many years ago - in the seventies in Hollywood.
Features of sculpting. Photo
Sculpting or contouring is nothing new to Hollywood makeup artists, having used it during the golden age of cinema. However, this makeup technique has only become a fashion trend in recent years. Now it is as integral to everyday makeup as mascara or tinted lips.
Sculpting a face from a photo step by step.
Contouring is aimed at modeling the relief and facial features. This is achieved by darkening and highlighting certain areas.
The technique allows:
- Reduce volume in the face area.
- Get rid of a double chin.
- Emphasize cheekbones.
- Make the nose thinner and change its shape.
- Correct the chin and forehead.
Thanks to the contrast of light and shadow, it is possible to add volume or remove it in the right places. Moreover, the contouring technique is simple enough to repeat at home.
Expert advice
Follow the listed rules and you will get a neat and beautiful make-up.
- Shake off any excess powdery makeup from your brush or sponge. Adding the missing layer is much easier than blending the excess amount.
- Thick cream formulations are easier to use if you first warm them by squeezing or spreading them on your hand.
- The corrector strip on the cheekbones should not be placed close to the nose or chin. Maintain a distance equal to the width of two fingers.
- You need to choose an eyebrow shape that suits your type.
Makeup: how to do face sculpting for beginners, at home, step by step using photos and videos
Pros and cons of contouring
This makeup technique has a number of advantages:
- Possibility of significant transformation of facial features.
- The need for a minimum set of cosmetics and brushes.
- Ease of execution.
- Quick application.
- Natural result.
However, you can get a positive effect from sculpting only if you master the shading technique.
If it is violated, you will have to face the disadvantages of contouring:
- Noticeable transition lines.
- Red spots on the face.
- Unnatural result.
- Feeling of a “layer cake” on the face.
Face sculpting brush
To work with different application techniques and textures, you need different tools. Sculpting the face is not complete without a fluffy brush with an angled cut, which is used to apply blush and emphasize the cheekbones, and evenly shade the product. Kabuki with a straight cut is needed for shading cream or liquid cosmetic products; using such a brush will make contouring smooth, very expressive and long-lasting. A fan brush is useful for applying highlighter; for the same purpose, you should purchase a flat eyeshadow brush with a slightly pointed edge.
What is needed for contouring?
Face sculpting (the photo shows step by step the full set of cosmetics for this makeup) is carried out using:
- Makeup bases.
- A sculpting product for creating shadow or a contouring palette.
- Highlighter to create lightened areas.
- Transparent powder.
- Blending brushes.
Face sculpting: the photo shows step by step the procedure for using cosmetics when contouring
Before you start modeling your face, you need to purchase a base and finishing product. The makeup base provides an even texture for natural blending and also makes sculpting products more intense. It should be chosen according to your skin type: mattifying, moisturizing or hiding imperfections in tone.
To consolidate the result and make-up durability, a finishing transparent powder is required.
What is a face sculptor
The easiest way is to purchase a special contouring palette with already selected shades. This decorative cosmetic product is called sculptor or fashion designer. The basic set contains two shades: dark sculptor - to create and/or enhance natural shadow, as well as light highlighter - needed to highlight certain areas on the face. For “advanced” users, there are palettes with a large number of tones that can be mixed together.
Choosing a sculpting product
Sculpting products are available in various textures:
- Dry sculpting blushes and powders are best suited for everyday contouring. The light dry texture falls on the skin like a thin veil, creating a natural shadow.
- Cream products are used for shooting in front of the camera. Thanks to the rich texture and vibrant hues, color does not disappear through the lens. This texture is not suitable for everyday makeup. In real life, she clearly stands out and looks unnatural.
Applying and blending cream contouring products is difficult, so it is not recommended to do so without the skills of a makeup artist.
- Sculpting products in sticks have a delicate and light creamy texture. Thanks to this, they create a natural shadow that is easy to shade. The sticks have a moisturizing effect and are therefore suitable for dry skin. Unlike powder, they do not emphasize flaking.
Only matte products are suitable for facial modeling. The tone can be either warm or cold. Makeup artists recommend combining both tones to create a natural shadow without red or gray. Sculpting palettes that combine several shades are designed for this.
When choosing a color, take into account your natural skin tone. The contouring product should be 1 to 2 shades darker.
How to choose a sculptor by texture
Contouring products come in dry and creamy textures. Powder sculptors are recommended for those with oily or combination skin types, because... they have a good matting effect. Such products are also easier to apply to the skin.
Creamy formulas (for example, in the form of sticks) are more suitable for normal to dry skin. But shading them requires a certain skill. If you are not confident in your abilities, give preference to dry products for sculpting makeup.
Highlighter selection
Sculpting the face (the photos show step by step not only the effect of shadow, but also light) is impossible without a highlighter. Thanks to it, it is possible to highlight certain areas to give them volume and a delicate glow.
Highlighters differ in texture:
- The liquid highlighter has a water-like texture. It is recommended for use by beginners who are just mastering the contouring technique. Thanks to its light texture, you can't overdo it with this product and it's easy to layer. The liquid product creates the most natural and delicate effect.
- Creamy texture is the most versatile. It is suitable for any skin type. This highlighter is not difficult to blend. To achieve the desired effect, a pea-sized amount of product is enough.
The application of the product does not take much time as the creamy texture is well pigmented.
- The sticks have a viscous and rich creamy texture. They are most convenient to apply due to the packaging format. In addition, sticks are most often used when it is necessary to frequently transport highlighter. However, they are contraindicated for oily skin due to the risk of clogging pores.
- Dry and crumbly highlighters have a powder-like texture. They are convenient to use on oily skin, which tends to quickly absorb other textures. This product can only be applied with a brush.
When choosing a highlighter, you need to decide on the color and size of the shining particles. The shade of the product can be silver, golden or pinkish. Radiant particles are small and unnoticeable, which is necessary to create the effect of natural illumination of the skin from the inside. There are also highlighters with large sparkles, each of which is noticeable individually.
These products are appropriate for evening makeup or on set. Some companies produce highlighter palettes that combine different shades.
Artist Tips
If possible, acquire basic knowledge of the basics of painting and color science. Dark tones create shadows and pull the image deeper into the background. Light shades, on the contrary, create glare, enlarge, and make the object larger.
Carefully choose an undertone that matches your skin color. For women of European appearance, cool shades of sculptor, with a pink or grayish undertone, are more suitable.
Do not use shiny products; choose black-and-white correctors that have a matte texture.
Choosing Contouring Brushes
Brushes are required for uniform application and natural shading of sculpting products.
They differ in shape:
- Beveled.
- Universal oval.
- Flat with short pile.
- With a tapered tip.
The brush can be of any shape. It is important that it is comfortable. The most versatile is the flat brush. It allows you to work on both large areas of the face and small ones, for example, the corners of the eyes or the wings of the nose. The brush should be tightly packed and its bristles elastic.
You should not buy brushes with cut bristles as they leave uneven stains. It is better to choose hand-stamped instruments.
Brushes are made from natural and synthetic fibers, as well as mixed ones - duo-fiber. Natural bristles are suitable for dry textures, and synthetic or duofiber for creamy textures. When blending creamy textures, you can also use a sponge or use your fingers.
All about facial contouring: cheat sheet from A to Z
How to narrow your nose with makeup, how does a cream sculptor differ from a dry one, what kind of contouring brush should you use? We have collected in one material everything you need to know about face sculpting.
Contouring is a makeup technique that allows you to correct the relief of your face, distract attention from its shortcomings and emphasize its advantages.
For example, with the help of contouring, you can visually lengthen or, conversely, shorten your nose, make your face more symmetrical, highlight your cheekbones, narrow your face, and even remove a “double chin.”
It is noteworthy that achieving such amazing results is very simple: just learn how to correctly alternate dark and light shades of foundation.
The canonical contouring “from Kim Kardashian” consists of as many as 50 stages, but the “light” version will require much less time, effort and cosmetics from you. And the result will be no worse. Let's figure out how to do proper facial sculpting.
DRY OR CREAM? CHOOSE PRODUCTS FOR FACIAL CONTOURING
There are two main types of facial contouring: the first is created with products with a dry texture, the second with creamy textures. What is the difference?
Dry contouring
As the name implies, this sculpting is done using dry products - blush or powder. They are usually applied with brushes. Powder products are most suitable for girls with oily skin (they provide a mattifying effect) and makeup beginners: they are the easiest to apply.
Contouring with powder
The main rule to follow when using contouring powder is this: apply it after you are done with creamy textures.
Before using contouring powder, be sure to powder your face with regular powder. Otherwise, the dry sculptor will “stick” to the foundation on the skin and spread in spots.
Despite the fact that sculpting powder is ideal for oily skin, there are several nuances to consider when handling it. So, in the case of oily skin, the highlighter should be either matte or with a satin finish: the shining particles will look like oily glitter.
If you feel like the powder looks too dark or heavy on your face, spritz your face with a refreshing mist.
Contouring with blush
If you need to highlight your cheekbones, it is better to choose blush in cool shades. If your own cheekbones stand out quite strongly and, on the contrary, the task is to “smooth out the corners,” warmer tones will suit you.
How to determine the area where you should apply blush? It’s very simple: focus on your face shape. For girls with an oval face, it is enough to apply the product to the apples of the cheeks.
If you have a long face, apply blush in horizontal lines (along the hairline in the center of the forehead, under the cheekbone and further towards the ears, spread a little on the chin), and if you have a round face - in vertical lines and only on the apples of the cheeks.
The following scheme suits a rectangular face: blend the blush along the prominent parts of the cheekbones (or under the cheekbone) and along the jaw.
Cream contouring
Cream contouring is done using denser products, the most popular of which are contouring sticks, correctors, and foundations. Cream products are most suitable for dry skin, but today they also produce cream sculptors with a matte finish: they are ideal for oily skin. However, if you are still on the “you” level with makeup, it is better to give preference to powder: cream is more difficult to shade.
Pencil or stick for contouring
These two products have the densest consistency, so you should be especially careful when blending them. Otherwise, they will look unnatural on the skin. The easiest way to blend a pencil or stick is with a cosmetic sponge, but you can also do it with your fingers.
Please note that thick cream products highlight skin imperfections and flaking, so they may not be suitable for problem skin.
Sculpting by proofreaders
If you don’t have a special sculpting product on hand, for this purpose you can easily use a liquid concealer one or two shades lighter or, conversely, darker than your skin.
CONTOURING BRUSHES
What kind of contouring brush should be and in what cases is it especially useful? Let's figure it out!
A soft fluffy brush (the kind usually used when applying blush) will come in handy when working on the sub-cheekbone area. Place a little bronzer or powder sculpting product on your brush, apply lightly to the skin and blend well.
Cream or liquid textures are more convenient to distribute with a sponge, but in some cases a kabuki brush with a straight cut can be an excellent alternative. Apply the product using a tapping motion and do not forget to blend it properly.
Dry highlighter is most conveniently applied with a wide fan brush, which will ensure even application and a translucent layer.
You can also distribute cream sculpting products using a flat synthetic bristle eyeshadow brush: this will ensure the most precise application. It is most convenient to “use” an eyeshadow brush with a slightly pointed tip.
If we are talking about a cream sculptor, then it can also be used instead of a corrector or concealer: there will probably be a suitable shade in the palette. Some palettes also include color blocks, which are useful for color correction of imperfections.
HOW TO DO FACE CONTOURING? STEP BY STEP
To understand the nuances of contouring, use our photo and video instructions.
Contouring with a creamy texture
A basic face sculpting scheme that every girl will need – and detailed video instructions.
Preparation
Before proceeding directly to contouring, it is necessary to properly prepare the skin of the face. Apply a primer and a moisturizing makeup base to your skin, or mix a regular moisturizer with foundation - and distribute the resulting composition over the skin. If necessary, disguise “bruises” under the eyes, minor redness, pimples and other skin defects.
There are two basic rules associated with cultivation techniques - and each of them is worth adhering to. The first piece of advice is this: darken everything that needs to be “hidden”, lighten the rest. The second important point is the order of application: first use the highlighter, and then apply the dark sculptor.
For a cream correction, choose a shade one or two shades lighter than your skin tone.
Give preference to a highlighter with a matte or satin texture. The one with shimmer is not suitable for contouring.
If you don't have a highlighter, use a light corrector or concealer one or two shades lighter than your foundation instead.
Apply highlighter to the bridge of the nose, the center of the forehead and chin, and the cheekbone. Also add a little to the corners of your eyes and under your brow bone.
Dark corrector
A dark-colored sculpting product should be two to three shades darker than a regular foundation. Apply it along the hollows of the cheeks, on the cheekbone, under the chin and around the perimeter of the forehead along the hairline.
Feathering
This stage is key in the entire contouring procedure. If the boundaries between the highlighter and the dark product (or foundation) are too noticeable, then the desired effect of a chiseled face will definitely not be achieved. Shade the lines with a sponge or brush, turning halfway to the mirror. First, use light shades with mascara and only then move on to dark ones, so that there are no dirty streaks left on your face.
In the area under the cheekbones, the dark sculptor should be shaded according to the following scheme: first horizontally, and then slightly upward.
Feathering
To make everything look unnatural, be sure to use blush (it will add volume to your cheeks that was lost during the contouring process). Then apply a light layer of regular powder to your face.
Contouring with a dry texture product
To do the correct contouring with a powder sculptor, use our simple video instructions.
The most important thing for girls with a round face is to highlight the sides of the face. Use only matte products. Apply the sculptor two to three shades darker than your skin on the sides of the forehead and along the entire face. This action will help narrow it down a little visually. Apply highlighter without shimmer to the middle of the forehead and chin, under the eyes in the shape of an inverted triangle.
Oval face contouring
A girl with this type of face should pay special attention to contouring in the cheekbone area.
Apply the dark sculptor under the cheekbones and blend.
Using the same dark sculptor, draw a strip along the hairline to visually narrow your forehead a little.
Apply highlighter to the center of the chin, the area above the cheekbones and along the temples to the eyebrows.
Contouring a square face
For girls with a square face, the main thing is to soften its features.
To slightly narrow your forehead, apply the sculptor to the sides of your forehead.
Add some sculpting under the cheekbones. Start drawing a line from the ears and end in the middle of the cheek.
Apply highlighter to the middle of the chin and under the eyes (closer to the nose).
The following trick will help you “lower” the upturned tip: draw a line across it as shown in the diagram below.
To make the “potato nose” more sophisticated, lighten the back of the nose with a highlighter, and apply a dark sculptor on the sides and wings of the nose.
If you have a hump on your nose, apply some dark sculptor directly onto it to make it less noticeable.
For other techniques that will help you visually reduce your nose, watch our video:
Lip contouring
To quickly plump up your lips, apply highlighter to the swoosh above your upper lip and centered under your chin.
Outline your lips with a pencil in the color of the shadow - brownish: before the lipstick or directly on top of the lipstick. There they will look more voluminous.
To get lips like Angelina Jolie, draw a line with a dark pencil in the middle of the lower lip under it (try to create the effect that the lower lip is so voluminous that it even casts a shadow). Also, in the center of the lower lip, draw a perpendicular line with the same pencil - as if there is a small “hollow” on the lip. Apply lipstick or gloss on top.
Cheek contouring
Thanks to contouring, you can easily make your cheekbones more expressive. Draw a line in a dark tone from the top of the ear to the area just below the cheek. Remember that the color should fade.
CONTOURING: BEFORE AND AFTER
You can get an idea of how contouring can transform your face from the photographs presented in our photo gallery.
Contouring: step-by-step instructions for a round face
To model a round face type, you must follow the recommendations:
- Apply a makeup base to the entire surface of the face, as well as foundation if necessary.
- Darkening the area of the cheekbones and cheeks with a sculpting agent.
- Darkening of the temporal zone.
- Darkening of the wings of the nose.
- Highlighting the central part of the forehead and chin.
- Highlighting the back of the nose. If there is a hump, it is necessary to darken it.
- Brightening the area under the eyes.
- Applying setting finishing powder.
The story is about how to determine your face type in order to properly smooth out its imperfections with the help of a highlighter:
Thanks to this makeup technique, you can visually narrow the face, creating a shadow in the area of its periphery. In this case, the main darkening emphasis falls on the cheek area. Highlighting the central part of the face gives it a look close to an ideal oval.
A few words about nose modeling
In order to visually widen or narrow the nose, apply a light-colored sculpting strip of the desired width to its back. Carefully blend the borders. Darken the sides of the nose. Do you want your nose to appear visually shorter? Apply a dark tone to its tip. You can work with either a brush or your fingers. The main thing to remember is smooth border crossings.
To look perfect, you need to practice more often. We wish you to successfully develop your skills, shine when going out and look natural at the same time.
Heart-shaped face modeling
Face sculpting (photos help you create the perfect makeup step by step) should be done in stages:
- It is necessary to even out the tone of the face. To do this, apply a makeup base, as well as foundation and corrector if there are visible imperfections on the skin. Before moving on to the next step, you should wait 1 - 3 minutes for the base to be absorbed into the skin.
- To visually smooth out the shape of the face, it is necessary to darken the area above the cheekbones, as well as the temporal area. It is important that the darkening falls on the area up to the middle of the face.
- Dark contouring powder needs to be blended from the temples to the hairline. In this case, the central part of the forehead should remain untouched.
- The area above the bridge of the nose needs to be brightened with a highlighter. The product must be shaded in the shape of a small triangle.
- In the chin area, you will need to lighten the central part, and darken the area under the chin.
- The highlighter should be applied to the central part of the nose, as well as to the area under the eyes.
- The final touch is the distribution of transparent powder in a thin layer.
Thanks to the visual smoothing of the sharp corners of a heart-shaped face, its shape will be closer to an oval one.
What to do with a full face?
The appearance of Slavic girls and Asian women is characterized by a wide face. Therefore, recommendations for visually reducing width and emphasizing the relief are suitable not only for obese women. Also, with the help of sculpting, skin defects are masked.
To make up a full or wide face, you need to purchase light and dark foundation, powder or cream blush, concealer, corrector, highlighter of a neutral shade, bronzer without reddishness, and transparent powder. Don't forget about eye makeup and lipstick.
When using cream textures to apply cosmetics, you will need sponges and brushes to shape your face. To apply powder you need a rounded angled brush.
When sculpting a full face, you need to visually draw an oval and cover everything behind it with dark products. The main work will take place inside the oval
You can contour your face with cream textures yourself if you follow the instructions:
- Moisten face and prepare before treatment.
- Soak a sponge in water, squeeze it well and apply a thin layer of a light base.
- Hide imperfections with concealer and mask under-eye circles with concealer.
- Darken the contours of the face with foundation, shade the lines.
- To visually narrow the cheeks, you need to draw an oblique strip in a dark tone along the depression that is formed due to the retraction of the cheeks. The line is shaded towards the temples with light movements of the brush or fingers.
- Gently spread blush onto the apples of your cheeks. Do not place them close to the wings of the nose, so as not to visually expand it further.
- Narrow the large nose with highlighter, darkening the wings with a dark shade.
- Apply cream highlighter evenly to the top of your cheekbones.
- Complete the correction with eye makeup.
Contour lines for a full round face
Correction of a full face is a real salvation for overweight girls. Makeup preserves individual features and adds attractiveness without surgical intervention. In order not to overdo it with cosmetics, makeup artists recommend visiting the salon for the first time. This will allow you to see the features of sculpting a full face.
Advice! Avoid rough dark eyeliner, vulgar bright shadows and unevenly applied lipstick, so as not to visually age your face.
Contouring for a triangular face
Correction of a triangular face shape is carried out in the following stages:
- Creating a foundation by applying makeup base, concealer or foundation.
- Darkening the area above the cheekbones, as well as the lower part of the face under the cheekbones.
- Apply dark contouring powder to the center area under the chin.
- Darkening the forehead along the entire hairline.
- Apply highlighter to the entire chin area, excluding the darkened area below.
- Blend the highlighter from the central part of the forehead to the bridge of the nose, and then to the bridge of the nose.
- Lightening the inner corners of the eyes.
- Fix the result with transparent powder.
Correction of this face shape is aimed at visually smoothing out the angularity that is characteristic of a triangular shape.
Why do facial corrections occur in makeup?
Facial correction is performed with one goal - to make your appearance as attractive and beautiful as possible from your own point of view. Visual effects are used for sculpting, which are created by applying shades of cosmetics that are darker and lighter than the skin tone. The black and white technique works as follows: dark colors visually reduce the surface on which they are applied, as if deepening them, while light colors, on the contrary, make them more voluminous, emphasizing and enlarging them.
So, usually women begin the process by adjusting the shape of their face (for example, those with a round shape make it more elongated, hiding the part on the sides). Next, individual elements of the face are worked out: the shape of the nose, eyes, lips. The resulting result can change your appearance beyond recognition, favorably emphasizing all its strengths.
Sculpting a Square Face
Modeling a square-type face must be done step by step:
- You need to create an even tone using a makeup base.
- The darkening agent must be applied to the cheekbones, blending into the area under the cheekbones.
- In the forehead area, areas where there are noticeable protrusions should be darkened. Darkening is done along the hairline. At the same time, the central zone, as well as the area above the temples, remain untouched.
- The darkening of the wings of the nose is carried out from the inner corner of the eyebrows. In this case, the line is shaded towards the tip of the nose, which means its intensity decreases.
- The highlighter should be distributed in the center of the forehead, chin, and also in the area around the eyes.
- To set the makeup, apply a thin layer of transparent powder.
Contouring a square face is aimed at making the lines visually smoother.
Sculpting Basics
First of all, you need to find out what type of face you have. It will be easier for you to determine this if you put your hair in a ponytail and look in the mirror. Trace the reflection with lipstick or marker. Match the resulting drawing with the geometric figure that most closely resembles it. The second stage is the selection of a palette and materials for work.
What cosmetics and tools are needed for contouring?
You need to choose a palette for your color type: spring, summer, autumn or winter. This can be difficult, since the set often contains one tone that is too saturated or light. In this case, you can get the options you need in separate packaging.
Remember a few rules:
- Makeup base should not contain glitter.
- Products with a shiny effect can only be used on the cheekbones, literally a few points.
- To change the oval, purchase three shades: close to natural, darker (by one or two tones), reflective.
- Cosmetics with a creamy texture are suitable for those with dry and normal skin. With powder – for oily and combination skin. It hides unwanted shine, blends easily, and creates a weightless layer.
- Choose 2 types of blush: one light, the other darker. Delicate salmon colors suit white-skinned girls, peach colors suit darker girls. There are special sculpting products just for emphasizing the cheekbones.
In addition to the decorative products themselves, you will need tools for their distribution. These could be sponges. It is especially good to use a beauty blender with a pointed end for these purposes. This is a drop-shaped or other shaped sponge, which is convenient for applying correctors, concealers, and foundation in the corners of the eyes, nose, and lips. In addition, it shades the tone evenly and leaves no spots or borders.
If you like brushes, purchase several options:
- Flat semicircular. It is coated with it.
- Beveled, kabuki and domed. To erase boundaries between layers.
- Thin. For drawing neat lines on the nose, under the eyebrows, eyes.
Is contouring necessary for oval face types?
The oval face type is the canon of beauty. However, it can also be sculpted. In this case, the main goal will be to emphasize and highlight the natural features of the face in order to enhance their beauty.
Modeling is carried out in several stages:
- Applying base for makeup.
- Darkening the area under the cheekbones.
- Apply highlighter to the chin, center of the forehead and bridge of the nose.
- Applying a sculpting agent to the wings of the nose with shading along the upper eyelid along the eyebrow growth line, which is carried out to its bend.
- Lightening the area under the eyes, as well as the inner corners of the eyes, the break point of the eyebrow.
- Set contouring with finishing powder.
An oval face requires minimal correction. Unlike other face types, it is aimed at emphasizing the natural smoothness of facial features, and not at their visual smoothing.
Cosmetologist's advice
For black and white correction, all well-known cosmetic brands produce products from foundations, sculpting powders and blushes, to light highlighters and shimmers, as well as modeling palettes. It doesn’t matter what products you use, the main thing to remember is that your skin should be spotlessly clean.
Advice: since several layers of cosmetics are applied, you will also have to wash it off in several steps. After washing, do a control procedure, wipe the skin with lotion.
Common Mistakes
Sculpting the face (step-by-step photos cannot reflect all the details and subtleties of the technique) can occur with errors.
The most common of them are:
- Inability to model a face in accordance with individual characteristics. Contouring is not intended for drawing a new face. This technique only allows you to adjust facial features so as to highlight your strengths and darken your flaws. Don't lose your individuality.
- Incorrect placement of light highlights, which disrupts the harmony of makeup. You should not apply highlighter all over your face or large areas, as it is intended only for placing light accents and does not serve as a replacement for powder.
- The absence of blush on the face makes it not alive. Don't limit yourself to just contouring powder and highlighter. It is necessary to complement your makeup with bronzing blush, matched to your skin color.
- Improperly preparing your skin for contouring can ruin your entire makeup. It is imperative to use the base. If this is not enough to even out the surface of the skin, you can apply foundation or BB cream.
- Using the wrong colors creates dirty spots on your face. You should not choose a contouring product that is too warm red or dark gray. It is better to mix warm and cool tones, and choose the color based on your skin tone. You should also avoid products with yellow tint.
- Insufficient shading of lines leads to imbalanced proportions, making facial features look unnaturally narrow or wide.
If you have problems with shading, you should use a quality brush. You shouldn’t put a lot of product on it, and it’s also important to shake off any excess.
Determining your face shape
Correct facial sculpting begins with determining the initial data. Depending on the shape of the face, different schemes and techniques are used. By the way, if you decide on the shape of your face, it will be easier not only to apply great makeup, but also to choose suitable clothes, jewelry, the ideal eyebrow shape and hairstyle. The face can be round, oval (this is considered stylistically universal; contouring schemes for all other types tend specifically to the visual formation of an oval), square, elongated, heart-shaped or triangular.
To determine the shape of your face, you will need a large mirror and a marker that is easily washed off from its surface, or lipstick. Put your hair in a ponytail and go to the mirror, straighten your back and straighten your shoulders, try not to express any emotions, your face should be relaxed. Looking straight, trace the outline of your face as accurately as possible in the mirror. Ears and hair volume do not need to be taken into account. You must try not to move so that the contour does not blur. Now step away from the mirror and evaluate the result.
The other method is more “mathematical”; there is no need to determine the shape by eye. It is necessary to measure with a measuring tape the width of the forehead, jaw and cheekbones at the widest part, as well as the vertical distance from the chin to the forehead. Compare the indicators. Which line is the widest and which is the narrowest, how much longer the face is vertically than horizontally. Now you need to compare the results with the descriptions of face types:
- the width of the face is equal to the length - round or square;
- face height > width 1.5 times or more - elongated (such a face is also called rectangular);
- the width of the forehead, cheekbones and chin are equal - a square or elongated (rectangular) face;
- forehead height > width less than 1.5 times - oval or heart-shaped;
- the width of the forehead and cheekbones is greater than the width of the chin - a triangular or heart-shaped face;
- the width of the cheekbones is greater than the width of the forehead and chin - oval, round or diamond-shaped;
- the width of the chin is greater than the width of the cheekbones and forehead - a pear-shaped face or an inverted triangle (this is a very rare shape).
Another method requires only two measurements: the height of the face divided by three (value A) and the distance from the tip of the chin to the base of the nose (value B). If A equals B, then you have an oval or, if the chin is sharp, heart-shaped face, if A is less than B, then it is a circle, triangle or diamond, and if A is greater than B, then you have a square or elongated rectangular face.
The options may not fit into any of the descriptions given, and that's okay. All people are individual, and a face that ideally suits a certain shape is very rare. More often you come across variants of the main types. You just need to decide which form is as close as possible to yours and, perhaps, follow the recommendations selectively.
Tips from makeup artists
Professional tips to help you achieve perfect makeup:
- Before applying contouring products, you need to carefully look at the reflection of your face in the mirror. You will need to imagine an oval in place of your own face. What goes beyond his features must be obscured.
- If difficulties arise with visual presentation, a face chart will help. It can be purchased at any makeup store. The face chart shows different types of faces so that the makeup artist can apply makeup and see how it will look on one type or another.
- It is important to lighten a small area under the cheekbones - the hollow, which is noticeable when you turn your head. This will prevent your cheekbones from becoming too sunken and prevent your face from looking sallow.
- It is easier to control the precision of highlighter application with a thin and flat brush. Afterwards, the application area must be shaded with a contouring brush. This way you will be able to correctly arrange the highlights, avoiding going overboard with the highlighter.
- For evening makeup or shooting in front of a camera, you need to use a dry texture of a contouring product on top of a cream one.
This way you will be able to achieve the most expressive effect, and your makeup will become more durable.
Bronzer and highlighter shade
Choosing the right shade is half the success. When choosing a sculptor, you should test products only on your own skin. The light shade should be one or two shades lighter than the color of the foundation you usually use. To create a shadow you need a shade one or two darker. When contouring the subzygomatic area, the color of your own shadow is used, as when choosing a shade you need to focus on the shadow areas of the face.
Those with pale skin should not use products with an orange undertone or too dark sculptors; taupe is suitable as a dark shade. Dark skin needs a copper-bronze highlighter.
The Best Contouring Products
Facial sculpting is impossible without high-quality cosmetic products. The procedure and technique for applying them will be indicated by step-by-step photos of contouring.
Name | Texture | Advantages and disadvantages | Price |
Palette sculptor Travel Contour Kit Smashbox | Powdery | The advantage of the product is the mixture of 3 different tones: neutral, warm and cold. The palette comes with detailed instructions on how to apply the products from the brand’s makeup artists. The miniature palette is convenient to take on trips. The downside is the lack of a brush in the kit. | 1650 rub. |
NYX Cream Pro Highlighter and Contour Palette | Cream | The advantage of the palette is the combination of 3 shades of highlighter and 3 shades of contouring product. The product features matte and sparkling textures, as well as neutral and rich colors. The downside is the lack of a mirror and sponge included. | 1590 rub. |
Sculptor Lumene Instant Glow Bronzer | Liquid | The advantage of the product is its light liquid texture, which is evenly absorbed, creating a natural darkening effect. Disadvantages include poor color saturation. | 1000 rub. |
Highlighter Soda Stik | Cream in stick | The advantage of the product is its bright shine, which is achieved through a combination of large and small sparkling particles. The disadvantage is the viscous texture, which is difficult to distribute and can clog pores. | 550 rub. |
By sculpting your face you can transform its features. This technique is done quite simply with the help of step-by-step photos. The main thing is not to forget about individual characteristics so that the result of the makeup is harmonious.
Author: Alena Lash
Article design: E. Chaikina
Selection of makeup products
Facial sculpting products can come in different shapes and textures. Solid sticks are suitable for compact cosmetic bags: a convenient double-sided pencil holds everything you need for full contouring. Cream powder will provide a weightless coating and will blend well, but will require more time to apply than a stick. In ready-made palettes, the products are usually creamy, but the foundation is thicker. For those who are still “on your way” with makeup, it is better to choose powder textures, and when you get the hang of it, you can move on to cream ones.
You can purchase a face sculpting palette rather than several products separately. Ready-made kits contain all the necessary cosmetic products. It is worth paying attention to the following palettes:
- Eight shades for contouring from NYX, the texture is powdery-creamy. Lasts about 8 hours, and then begins to gradually fade, leaving no streaks or dirty spots. Cost - 900 rubles.
- Sculpting powder from L'Oreal Paris. Suitable for beginners - the kit includes instructions and a step-by-step description of the process of applying makeup. Stays on the skin for 4-5 hours. Cost - 1015 rubles.
- The Pupa palette in matte and shimmery textures is suitable for applying daily and evening makeup. The price of the palette is 1000 rubles.
- The Shape your face palette will save space in your cosmetic bag; it is a blush, bronzer and highlighter at the same time. The products seem very bright, but they are poorly pigmented, so they will be barely noticeable on the skin in one or two layers. Cost: 399 rubles.
- Palette from Sleek MakeUp for 710 rubles. Bronzing powder and highlighter are applied with a large angled brush. In some cases (depending on the natural color), products can even replace eyebrow shadows.
- Palette of two shades Prime and fine from Ctrice. Easy to apply and shade; there are step-by-step instructions in pictures on the back of the package. The cost of the palette is 335 rubles.
- Eight shades from Makeup Revolution. It’s simply impossible not to find your shade in this palette. Brown-red is suitable for dark-skinned girls, pale pink will perfectly hide wrinkles under the eyes, taupe perfectly highlights the cheekbones. Price - 940 rubles.
- Economical palette from Just Make Up. A small palette will last at least 6 months. In addition, the products are very durable, staying on the skin for up to 8 hours. Cost - 880 rubles.
- Palette Manly Pro. Just two universal shades will quickly disguise all skin imperfections. Such a wonderful remedy can be purchased for 1080 rubles.
- CoverAll Corrective Palette. Green, purple, pale blue and orange correctors will help “erase” signs of fatigue, lighten the skin, correct the oval of the face, and emphasize the cheekbones. The product costs only 285 rubles.
Sculpting an oval face
Any contouring strives to visually create an oval face, as this is a stylistically ideal shape with balanced proportions. Happy owners of an oval face can use the standard sculpting scheme. You just need to avoid visual lengthening when highlighting the cheekbone line with a dark shade.
Reviews about sculpting an oval face confirm that such girls mastered the technique the fastest. They don’t have to think on their own about which areas are best to lighten and which need to be darkened. It is enough to use a standard scheme to achieve an ideal result.
Girls with an oval face can experiment a lot with makeup, clothes (if their figure allows, of course) and hairstyle. But of course, you need to do all this within reason.
What you need for makeup
To create perfect facial contouring at home, you need a palette that includes several shades of foundation - highlighters and bronzers. Almost all well-known manufacturers produce sculpting products (MAC, Maybelline, NYX and others). The more shades a palette contains, the easier it is to match your skin tone. After all, its natural tone changes significantly depending on the time of year.
In addition to contours, you will need additional cosmetic products that are used to create a base for makeup and as a fixer.
To even out the tone you will need:
- primer – ensures smooth application of subsequent layers of cosmetics;
- tone – evens out skin tone;
- concealer – essential for masking dark circles and redness;
- powder – evens out and consolidates the result.
Required products for contouring:
- highlighter is a product with reflective particles, slightly lighter than the natural skin tone, its task is to highlight and refresh the face. The product contains shimmer;
- bronzer (contour) – this product is designed to highlight the cheekbone line. This product darkens everything that goes beyond the ideal shape - oval. It should be two shades darker than your skin tone;
- blush – adds freshness to the overall look.
In addition, you will need tools to apply and shade contouring:
- wide brush for applying foundation;
- an angled fluffy brush for applying contour and blush;
- a kabuki brush with a flat cut - for creamy textures, with an oval cut - for dry products;
- fan brush – for applying highlighter in a light layer;
- an eyeshadow brush with a rounded tip - can be useful for precise shading.
The list of what you need for facial contouring is complemented by a regular sponge or beauty blender. It is ideal for applying creamy textures.
A base for sculpting correctors is required. Without it, makeup will quickly turn pale and crumble. And with a primer, cosmetics look more intense.
It is important to know how to choose cream correctors for facial contouring. These products come in two types:
- fixed;
- waxy.
Fixed cosmetics are especially durable. They don’t even need to be covered with powder on top. Products contain a lot of pigment and dry quickly, so they should be blended as quickly as possible. This is what you need for facial contouring performed for important events and photo shoots. Moreover, it is better to entrust the application of sculpts to a professional makeup artist. Makeup made using fixing contours lasts a long time until it is removed with makeup remover products.
Wax cosmetics have a plastic texture and are often enclosed in sticks. This product is practical because it is convenient to use cosmetics in sticks. No brushes or sponges are needed to apply it. The cosmetics are applied directly from the tube and can be blended with your fingers. If you fix the wax coating with powder, then in terms of durability it is not much inferior to makeup made with the help of fixing correctors.
Sculpting techniques
Sculptural makeup can be evening or daytime. The evening version is brighter and more expressive. In the daytime version, the tone transitions are less noticeable and soft.
There are different types of contouring depending on the texture of the cosmetics used:
- Dry contouring. Makeup is created using solid cosmetic products. Dry cosmetics lay on a lighter layer, but significant imperfections cannot be masked with its help.
- Cream contouring. Products with a creamy texture allow you to get a more pronounced effect, but they must be used with caution so that the makeup does not look like clown makeup.
Note! Dry and cream products for facial contouring from Korean manufacturers deserve good reviews.
Being unaccustomed to doing proper contouring is not easy for yourself. But over time, when you manage to figure out which areas need to be emphasized and which to hide, how much makeup to apply and how to shade it correctly, you will be able to do makeup quickly, in just a few minutes.
Cosmetics used in makeup include contouring products such as highlighter and bronzer.
Bronzer is applied to:
- cheekbones - to determine the right place, you can make a “fish” by drawing in your cheeks.
- temples - parallel to the hairline;
- on the sides of the back of the nose - to visually narrow it;
- under the chin - to hide a chin that is too pointed or too voluminous.
Highlighter is applied to areas located closer to the center:
- the bridge of the nose and the central part of the bridge of the nose;
- middle of forehead;
- a tick above the upper lip;
- central protruding part of the chin;
- the top of the cheekbones under the eyes.
Some technical tips from professional makeup artists:
- On the forehead, contouring should be applied closer to the hairline.
- Careful shading is required.
- Cheekbones are emphasized with contour in any case.
- To make light contouring, use dry correctors without pearlescent particles.
- Highlighter conceals wrinkles. The secret is to stretch the skin when applying, distribute the product in the recesses and blend thoroughly.
At the initial stage, mistakes are inevitable. Makeup artists give a list of the most common:
- The outline is too dark. It should be only two shades darker than your natural skin tone. Darker in this case does not mean better. Brown shades are for people with dark skin tones.
- The corrector should not have a yellow or orange tint, otherwise unnatural colored spots will be visible.
- The optimal corrector color is gray-brown.
- The powder, which is applied after sculpting, should be distributed with light movements using a brush and in a thin layer.
- The skin in the T-zone is powdered more thoroughly, as it is prone to oiliness.
- In the process of creating makeup, you need to turn to the mirror with the side that is being processed. It is also necessary to compare the results on the left and right sides.
Note! It is extremely important to choose the right shades and apply the right amount of makeup. And to achieve this, you need good, preferably natural, lighting.
The Best Palettes for Sculpting
Nyx'S Pro Palette for sculpting
Nyx'S Pro Palette is an affordable buy that includes eight shades. With these many options, you'll always have the perfect palette available for your skin tone.
Too Faced Sculpting Palette
This contour palette includes a four-step process to carve out your facial features. Mix and match contour shades and highlighting powders to create contrast in all the right areas.
REVOLUTION HD Pro Cream Contour medium dark contour palette
For the beginner, this set has designed a starter palette equipped with the most basic tech essentials. The palette also includes a how-to guide that offers step-by-step guidance on sculpting the nose, cheeks, and chin.
Marc Jacobs -Light filtration contour palette
For a beauty look that's Instaworthy (without any filters), Marc Jacobs brings us the palette, available in three shading/highlighting duos that create natural-looking facial size.
DIVAGE Good Vibes Only Face Sculpting Palette
Designed by the queen of the beauty industry's brows, this must-have kit comes with six multi-use shades ranging from light to deep. It's everything you need to sculpt your face in one convenient palette.